My wife and I recently visited Anniston, Alabama, where I was born in 1957. We wanted to visit the historical marker on Hwy 202 where a mob made up of area residents attacked and burned a Greyhound bus with Freedom Riders on board. Worldwide distribution of the photograph of the incident, which occurred about five miles outside of Anniston, pushed the location along Hwy 202 into the international spotlight.
Freedom Riders with a burning bus at
Anniston, Alabama, May 14, 1961 (UPI)
My family had left the Anniston area in 1958 when my parents became Southern Baptist missionaries to Thailand. We returned to the area several times over the years, the first time in 1962 for our first furlough. We lived for what was my kindergarten year in the small town of Eulaton, within about a mile of the bus burning incident that took place about one year before my family's return to Alabama.
Most of my youth was spent in Thailand during the Vietnam War era, which has long had me thinking about how U.S. history shaped my worldview. Recent visits to the Anniston area to visit family have me to thinking about how these furlough experiences contributed to my personal zeitgeist.
In addition to 1962, we lived in Anniston for the 1968-69 (sixth grade) and 1973-74 (eleventh grade) academic years. I've been overlaying these furlough years with American history to start trying to understand how my understanding of key events in American history are also key events in my own life. Which is what led me to search out the marker along Hwy 202, commemorating the events of May 16, 1961.
To help locate the marker I had in hand Raymond Arsenault's 2006 book, Freedom Riders; 1961 and the Struggle for Racial Justice. I had placed a slip of paper in the book to mark page 142, which had a detailed map of the burning bus location. With book in hand, and the general instruction that the bus was burned about six miles from Anniston, we headed west on Hwy 202. We drove and we drove, looking left and right for the marker, to no avail.
I pulled off the highway at a local establishment to get directions. A young white woman in her mid-20s said she didn't know the location. We pulled over to the edge of the parking lot to study Arsenault's map. Within about 30 seconds there was a tap on the car window. A young white man about the same age as the woman I'd spoken to asked if we were looking for the marker related to the Civil Right's incident. We said yes.
He said it was about a mile back toward Anniston, and that we'd see it on the right side of the highway just around a sweeping turn to the right. We thanked him and pulled back out on the highway. We drove about a mile, past the sweeping right turn, and still we couldn't find the marker.
I turned right at the next opportunity to get off the highway, pulling onto what I quickly realized was the "Old Birmingham Highway," which runs parallel to the new highway for stretches of a few hundred yards at a time. I understood that the incident had taken place along the old highway, so I felt that we might just be heading in the right direction. Heading back west, away from Anniston, I soon saw up ahead that we were running out of road on the old highway. Then I saw it. A marker sat just to the right of the guardrail, just 20-30 feet from the end of the old highway.
This picture is taken looking east, back
toward Anniston.
The marker began: "On May 14, 1961, a Greyhound bus left Atlanta, GA carrying among its passengers seven members of the Congress of Racial Equality (CORE), a.k.a. the 'Freedom Riders.'" It goes on to recount the story of the mob attacking and burning the bus on that very location.
So, we'd found it, and yes, it was about a mile from where I spent my kindergarten year starting in the summer of 1962. I'd never heard about the terrible incident as a child, and only more recently did I ask my parents whether they realized at the time we lived in Eulaton that only a year before that the bus burning had taken place. They said they weren't aware of it at the time.
My goal in this post is to make clear exactly how to find this marker, should you ever decide to look for it. These directions should be very clear: Start out at the eastern end of Hwy 202, at Quintard Avenue in Anniston. Drive west exactly five miles and turn left on to the Old Birmingham Hwy.
This picture shows the sign for the Old
Birmingham Hwy. In the far left of the
photo you can barely make out the marker,
which sits atop a small rise that separates
the old highway from the new one below.
As soon as you turn onto the old highway turn right, where you should immediately see the blockade marking the end of the old highway. On your right you'll see the marker, placed there in 2007, commemorating the events of May 14, 1961. And if you can't find it based on these directions, you can read the marker below:
I just came across the book, Beyond the Burning Bus, in a 2003 article in the Anniston Star. I've ordered a copy of the book. I'll let you know what I think about it when I've had a chance to read it.
FOOTNOTEs ADDED 5/19/09:
1. Here's an interesting educational resource, hosted on a Univ. Of Mississippi Web site.
2. Here are two screen shots from google maps, which may help to locate the markers.
Sunday, December 21, 2008
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4 comments:
I wish I'd seen this about six months ago. I grew up in Gadsden, and was going home for Thanksgiving, having just read Arsenault's book, and went looking for the site. I knew the area, or thought I knew it, fairly well. Arsenault's map has the burning pretty much in Bynum itself, but I couldn't find any marker there.
I'm wondering, because as it turns out the marker for the Battle of Tallasseehatchee Creek on Highway 431 between Glencoe and Alexandria is about two miles from where it should be (according to some JSU archaeologists who actually found the village), if this marker is where it should be? If it is Arsenault is off, indeed. Has anyone confirmed, by memory or other mapping, that the marker is in the right place?
I didn't have my iPhone/GPS at the time I visited the site. Next time I return to the area I'll head back to the spot and get a location. Not sure how to compare this to historical data to pinpoint the location. Perhaps the folks who were responsible for the sign can weigh in on the location that was chosen.
I read in another article that the sign is not on the original site because the road was widened and the site was paved over. There are murals on buildings in Downtown Anniston to memorialize part of the events. Also the bus station in Anniston where the initial confrontation started is now closed. I don't know if anyone is doing anything to mark it before it becomes part of the dustbin of history.
I just found another article about this saying that a four acre park is supposed to be built on the site of the burning. Here's the link:
http://www.foxnews.com/us/2012/10/12/groundbreaking-ceremony-for-freedom-riders-park-to-be-held-in-alabama.html
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